Resolved… It’s not The Moon,
It’s Iceland indeed!!
Being an avid lover of nature, I was planning a holiday this
summer. While I was zeroing on country /countries to visit, I got a suggestion
to visit Iceland. Presence of my friends Kartik and his family in Iceland, proved
to be like magnet. Decision being made, I stepped on the ‘land of midnight sun’
on a sunny night, at 10.40 pm on 19th may, 2016.
As the plane
approached Keflavik port, the land beneath looked alien! I was not expecting anything
like this in the name of Iceland! I kept looking at the on-board monitor to
confirm chance landing on the Moon, but it kept on pointing to Keflavik on the
map. It was Keflavik indeed. No wonder Iceland is the chosen destination for
training of astronauts visiting the Moon.
Having travelled from a Schengen country, we were through quickly and I
was picked up by a half asleep Anirudh and his mom Soumya. The journey to my
home, while in capital Reykjavik, was full of surprises, right from Iceless
land (summer) to the deep blue and calm Atlantic. Snow-capped ‘Esya’ volcanic
mountain range( oldest mountain being 3.2 million years old) to huge fields of
black volcanic rocks covered with yellow & greenish moss and lichens
growing on them. Colourful roofs signifying hope and vitality in rather gloomy
winters, hot beds in the earth that produce 100% renewable electricity from
geothermal energy. Beautiful landscapes, well maintained roads, innumerable hot
geysers to keep warmth in otherwise cold country (the list is inexhaustible!) were
enough to keep me active for rest of my stay, have a blast and say-as in
Iceland “I Lava You”.
Atlantic Ocean with snow clad mountains Houses with coloured roofs
Volcanic rocks Geothermal energy
To add to the strangeness the mid –ocean ridge can be seen
on land in Iceland around ‘Þingvellir’
(Pronounced-Thingvitlir) region. Here the North American and Eurasian
tectonic plates are moving apart from each other at the rate of around 2 cms
every year.
If boundaries of countries could be formed based on the
tectonic plates then it is here one can sneak in and out of both the
countries without even needing to show the passport! But, this shift is making Iceland vulnerable
to more earthquakes that keep rumbling and volcanos that keep generating lava,
ash and more volcanic rock fields. My sincere appreciation and salute to
Icelandic people who are tenacious enough to remain attached to their roots and
overcome all odds. It is rightly said-Janani janmabhoomishch swargadapi gariyasi
(mother and motherland are above all).
Our stay of 6 days was simply not enough to cover a distance
of astonishing 103,001sq kms, but thanks to our friends, we could cover quite a
bit. Cars rentals are available for hire and there are special buses that
conduct tours to various destinations.
Iceland is home to a number of
waterfalls. Gullfoss (Golden
Falls), Skógafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Barnafossar,
Hraunfossar
(the Lava Falls) were few of the unique and diverse cascades we managed to see and enjoy their beauty.
from behind the foss
Rang de tu mohe Gerua Tour
Barnafossar Black sand beach Skogafoss
We had a ‘Rang de tu mohe Gerua’
tour too. Iceland is now gaining popularity as shooting destination for films
and serials, ‘Game of thrones’ being the latest, I suppose.
We had a chance to get a peek
into a lava cave at Vatnajökull National Park (west of Iceland), which is 35
mtrs deep. It was pitch dark inside and we had to take flashlights with us to
be able to step properly on the natural path on the floor of the cave. The cool
lava here has solidified into stalagmites and stalactites. A layer in the cave
rich in Iron is red in colour. There are 40 yrs old remains of an Arctic fox - A chilling yet amazing experience. The Vatnajökull
Glacier remained out of our reach as it was raining and very cloudy. But, black
sand beaches and large chunks of two or three rocks in the Ocean made up for
the deprivation.
Lava Cave Blue water, black sand Kirkjufell (Church shaped mountain)
Beautiful rock ensemble Falls near Kirkjufell Western scenary
Landing on My Dream Destination
With kindling of desire by Soumya , a firm push from Kartik
and Karan and my inner inspiration, I was motivated to plan and take this journey. Result, I
landed on the NORTH POLE- 66°33’5”, Grimsay Island, straddling the Arctic
Circle.
Grimsey Norlandair - Twin Otter
Grimsay is a small ‘comma’ shaped
island on the northern most tip of Iceland. It is 40 kms from Akureyri- the
second largest city in Iceland and reachable either by a Norlandair flight or a
Grimsey Ferry. Though very short, this journey to the North Pole and back will
remain etched in my heart and memory for life.
The journey to and back from Grimsey was
one of its kind in my life. I had booked a ticket that took me to Akureyri.
From there I had a connecting flight to Grimsey at 1.05pm.
I waited for announcement of this dream
flight till 12.45pm and then grew panicky. On inquiring about the possible
delay, instantaneously came the answer -‘No, it’s on time. It takes only five
minutes to board!’ I found that answer unjustifiable, but I waited. But as
informed, at 12.55pm boarding was announced. As soon I left the terminal
building another surprise awaited me. Having travelled the giant aircrafts, the
sight of the Twin Otter craft generated mixed feelings of anxiety and
excitement.
Experience of anxiety started right
after I climbed into the flight with my boarding pass clutched in my palms.
Once inside, I frantically started searching for my seat, which somehow kept me
eluding. There were no flight attendants to help and the co-passengers had
their back towards me. I had no option but to peep out to find the solution. On
making the authorities aware of the fact that there was no seat corresponding
to the allotted on my ticket, I was told nonchalantly-‘There are no reserved
seats, sit where ever you find one’. Sheepishly, I turned around and found one
to sit. In few seconds the door was closed with a thud! The first officer on
the flight gave us all the safety instructions and we were off to Grimsey.
Norlandair was manoeuvred through the
panoramic, Ejyafyoerdur -fjords, serene Atlantic, Ice capped mountain range of Tröllaskagi
peninsula, simply stunning locales! This craft flies at a
pretty low altitude and one could see the birds flying at a distance below.
Though a daredevil by nature, I chanted prayers while holding on to the seat
firmly (there was nothing else to hold on to) whenever, the aircraft tilted to
one side. Thank God for an awesome weather that day, we reached Grimsey without
much turbulence.
Ejyafyoerdur –fjords Boats at the Harbour Entrance to the Harbour
A colourful sight of boats and steamers
at the harbour welcomed us and a colony of birds greeted us as we landed at
Grimsey. These birds love the island so much that they seem to be protesting
for having built the airport there. They are on the air strip all the time. The
officials have to shoo them off three minutes prior to landing and they are
back as soon as the flight is air born!!
After disembarking I realised that only
five of us were tourists and rest of them residents!!
Lady Gagga (Ms Gagga is the name) who
was taking care of the luggage from the craft turned to us and pointed to a
platform near the airport and very enthusiastically told us to step on that, as
that was the region through which Arctic circle passes. Also informed us that
Puffins were out after hibernation and we could take pictures and marvel at
their presence. My excitement knew no
boundaries. I almost ran out of the
airport in few strides and then it struck me-where is the guide, the Air
Iceland had promised? I asked a lady about the guide. She told me in her broken
but understandable English that Lady Gagga will be my saviour. I murmured a
thank you and turned back. Through the fence I had seen that she was still
around the aircraft, attending to her duties. I reached the entrance to the
runway and tried to call her, but she was busy.
I stepped towards her with
apprehensions, as I was entering a restricted area and I would be reprimanded.
My assumption proved to be baseless, I could easily reach her. She was indeed
the person I was looking for, Jack of all trade! She is an officer, porter,
driver, guide—all in one.
Once she was through with the airport
work, she came with us and made us pose on the platform that is built in the
Arctic region and clicked photographs. There is a pole on the platform that has
names of various countries, and their distance from Grimsey. After learning my
citizenship, she clicked photos from all angles as India is not there on their
list! To add to already incredible events we witnessed surreal exchange of
Oaths to be ‘Man n Wife’, in thick and thin by a young couple from Taiwan. What
a day it turned out to be!
NORTH POLE- 66°33’5” Puffin Birds Puffin birds
Arctic circle crosses thro’this part
Wishing
the couple good luck we turned towards northern most part of the island to
catch a glimpse of the spectacular display of nature, The Icelandic national
bird-Puffin. No words to express my delight. They are unique in the way they
jump and fly. They were feast to the eyes. Though cautious, they were posing
for the camera. We just went on clicking. We were advised to keep our heads
covered when in open as Arctic terns have a habit of pecking on human heads in
order to save their eggs. Actually Grimsey being home to an array of cliff
nestling birds, it is a bird watchers paradise. It is an incredible fact that
around 40 courageous people weather the winters and around 90 people summer.
There is an unusually dense population of birds, thanks to reduction in egg and
bird hunting by the recent residents.
Lady Gagga then took us around the
northern part of the island where people live. Rest of the island is not
occupied. The lone brightly painted ‘Light house’ overlooking the ocean adds to
the spender.
Although religion is taking a back seat, one of the early
Catholic bishops of Iceland, Jón Ögmundsson consecrated a church on Grímsey in
the 11th century. It was dedicated to St. Olaf, the patron saint of Norway.
This structure is very well maintained and has seen around 50 priests
discoursing in its premises. Men in Grimsey are by default fishermen. There is
abundance of fish in the calm Atlantic that receives warm water from Gulf of
Mexico, hence pretty fertile in fish production.
Light
House
Catholic Church
Inside the Church
Though this place lacks a hospital, it has two signature
features as rest of the Iceland—a golf course and a swimming pool. A doctor
visits once in three weeks by flight. He never worries about getting back to
Akureyri as the flight does not take off without him on board. There is one
grocery shop, one local art shop and few places to stay. Though remote, people
here are well connected with rest of the world by latest technology like face
book, email etc.
At the end of our stay on the island Lady Gagga presented
us with a certificate for having crossed the Arctic Circle. My heart swelled
with pride as I held it in my hands. It was time to say goodbye. We did not
need to show our boarding passes as Lady Gagga knew who we were and it was in
the best interest (our and theirs)that we take the flight back. On our way back
I sat their mesmerized, felt reborn having immersed my soul into the miraculous
revitalizing powers of the Mother Nature. I have carried back everlasting
memories with me.
Bless Iceland!
